In His Steps

A Mediterranean vacation leads to an unexpected discovery of Blessed Junípero Serra’s hometown

by Audry Lynch

Like all great travel adventures, this one came about unexpectedly. We were on a Mediterranean cruise with daily excursions to well-known islands. After arriving on beautiful Majorca, our tour guide asked us, “Are you from California?” When we said “Yes,” she said, enthusiastically, “I’d love to go there someday and see all the missions. People are always asking questions about them because Father Serra was a Majorcan. Did you know that?”

Despite my husband’s deep involvement with Serra for the past few years, we actually didn’t know that! Our tour guide went on to explain that the house Junípero Serra was born in, plus a museum, was located about 45 minutes from Palma, the capitol of Majorca, where we were sightseeing. “How can we get there?” we asked, excitedly. She said her friend, a cab driver, could take us. The cost would be $150, and the trip would take about three hours, including the house and museum stops. “Arrange it,” we said, because we knew we were looking at a once-in-a-lifetime travel adventure.

After our official tour of the magnificent basilica in Majorca, we met our driver at a nearby restaurant. The weather was beautiful as we drove out into the country toward our destination. We noted that the countryside, the foliage, and the terrain were remarkably similar to our home area in California. Father Serra must have felt very comfortable in his mission to our state. When we arrived at the small town of Petra, Father Serra’s birthplace, we were charmed by its small-town ambience.

It was a small and quiet place, and it looked as if it probably hadn’t changed much since Father Serra had spent his boyhood there. It was siesta time when we arrived, so there was no one in sight. The cobblestone streets were so narrow that our taxi had a hard time maneuvering through them. Finally, our driver, Eduardo, dropped us on a small street leading to the museum. As we walked down this small street, we were surprised and delighted to see ceramic tile reproductions of the California missions on the sides of the buildings and homes along both sides of the street. It was like stations of the cross tableaux, except with missions. They were beautifully done, complete with mission bells, and we were charmed to see these representations of our familiar missions in this quaint Spanish town.

We arrived at the museum to find the wrought iron gates locked, but Eduardo said, “Don’t worry. I’ll get the lady to open it.” As we waited, we looked around a lovely courtyard. Soon, Isabel appeared with Eduardo, and she shook our hands. With a smile, she welcomed us as part of the worldwide fellowship of Serrans. The museum was bright and airy, with polished light wood floors. There was no admission charge, just a plate for donations. A few documents were on a table, and we could take what we wanted in exchange for our contribution. Isabel showed us around, pointing out things she thought would be of special interest to us. There were models and paintings of all the missions, and we learned that Father Serra had established four missions in Mexico before he founded his famous “necklace” of missions from San Diego to San Francisco.

We pointed to the Santa Clara mission and explained that we lived nearby. Isabel pointed to the Carmel Mission, and with pride and excitement, showed us a picture of Pope John Paul II visiting Father Serra’s grave. We were especially intrigued by some of the plaques, which show that many California Serrans have contributed much of the financial backing of the museum, particularly the San Francisco club. There was a huge black metal plate listing about 50 names and memorializing the pilgrimage of the Serrans of California in 1957.

There was also a plaque celebrating a visit by the Serra Club of Palo Alto on its silver jubilee in 1977. There were two flags flying outside the museum – one Spanish, and one American. The museum was founded by the Friends of Junípero Serra, and opened in 1959. The Spanish royal family visited the museum in 1984. The museum was constructed in the Majorcan style of architecture, and blends into the rest of area. There’s a garden near the courtyard with a mission bell, and we were interested to learn that it was a gift of Mr. and Mrs. Whitney of Upland, Calif.

An engraving of the Carmel Mission sent by President Reagan in 1984 is also displayed. The ties between the Majorcan museum and the United States seem very strong! After we enjoyed the paintings (our favorite was a painting of Father Serra with a couple of children that symbolize the brotherhood between Petra and Carmel), and the specialized library, we walked a few steps down the road to Father Serra’s birthplace. Father Serra was born in 1713 and grew up in house number 6 on Barrocar Alt Street.

It’s hard to describe the thrill we felt as we stood under the sign commemorating Father Serra’s home as we entered it. The modest home where Father Serra grew up with his mother and sister reflected the lifestyle of a peasant family. The bedroom was small and dark. There was a minimum of furniture, primitive cooking utensils, and a small flower garden out back. It’s hard to believe that from such a humble beginning, a person could find the will and strength to make such a difference in our world.

Again we found an interesting fact: The Rotary Club purchased the house and gave it to the San Francisco Council, who, 50 years later, returned it to Petra. The Fray Junípero Serra Friends Association now takes care of it.

On our ride back to the ship, we were fairly quiet, trying to assimilate all that we had learned from the fascinating visit. My husband Greg, current president of the Serra Club of Santa Clara, was anxious to tell his fellow Serrans about it. It brought an enthusiastic reaction from his club members. At the end of his description, one of our fellow members declared: “OK, that’s it. All our club members are going to plan a trip together to that museum and that house.” We didn’t hear any objections.

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